Wednesday, 13 March 2013

End Chapter (part seven )


End Chapter ( part seven )

No, there was no tunnel of light, no cool guy in robes standing with a smile on his face to greet me, just a black nothing.

What happened next is just a big confusing mess, George was there, out of focus inches from my face speaking to me, but the volume was off I could see his lips moving but nothing was registering. Then BANG the sound was back on, I had no idea what he was saying, I tried to talk, but again my tongue was on strike, just garbled sounds. I could see fear on Georges face, this snapped me back and words came out of my mouth, I can´t be sure what he was asking or what I said. I know I was swearing at him that much I can remember.

 Ever since that 3rd Feb 2009, I have sat and stared at the ocean from those rocks down at Tubes, I have run this through my mind a million times, tried to work it out. How long was I under the water? How did I survive? Why did I wear a wetsuit? What if George arrived 10 seconds later? Just questions, never any answers.

From out of nowhere a longboard appeared, George and someone else were rolling me onto it and they started moving me towards the beach. As they worked their way through the surf zone a set broke, my board which was still attached to my left foot on its leash was being dragged behind me like some kind of bizarre accessory to this whole drama  and it came crashing into us with the foam of that wave. It bounced nose first into me, it should have hurt like hell. I did not feel a thing.


I had spent 24 years trying to forget the last time I had been dragged from disaster on my surfboard, but right then it all came flooding back. Freddie was there for me in 1985, my surfboard had saved my life and spine then. Some things you can never forget no matter how hard you try. The memories poured back, I could not believe it, it was happening again.


1 comment:

  1. dont talk shit, I suppose it was Freddie Kruger !!!

    ReplyDelete