End Chapter ( part three )
The wave saved me. It must have been a bigger set, as it pushed through with more force than any other. Up to that moment I had been pretty immobile just floating around face down trying to get a grip on what the hell was going on. That wave was a life changer, a small foamy a few feet from the beach was by far the most important wave I had ever come across.
Every surfer has caught waves they will remember forever, I have a few. My first wave caught at Ballito Bay way back in 1973, The day of the oil at Garvies when we were groms in the 80´s. The wave I paddled over at the SA champs in 1987 wanting the next one which did not appear. The 12 footer I got at G Land in 1997, my last wave as a pro in 1993, the list goes on and on. As a surfer waves have guided my life and in those quiet moments if I close my eyes I can surf them over and over, but that one I will never forget.
The wave saved me, it hit me side on and rolled me over face up. Breathe, breathe, breathe, instinct took over, I sucked in oxygen, water, foam, blood absolutely everything I could. To this day I wonder how I did it, do we get some kind of super powers when the adrenaline kicks in. Try sucking a glass of foam down your throat and not cough, that day I sucked in litres of water without so much as a splutter.
Newtons law of physics states every action has an equal and opposite reaction, that day was no different. The backwash of that set wave pulled me off the rock shelf into open water in the channel between the Point and Tubes and much to my horror back onto my stomach and face down. My brain was still in hyper drive and things seemed to be speeding up, which at the time worried me a bit, but my brain was at maximum revolutions, think, think, think. I had semi filled my lungs with air, I had a minute or two to work this out, George was there he would come.
Yes George was there he would come, GEORGE where the hell are you.