Head wounds bleed a lot, of course my first surfing injury was at Garvies. Airforce One came down swallow tail first onto my head one afternoon while surfing after school, Thomas was right next to me as my head opened up like a melon, he walked me back home blood streaming down my face, back and shoulders. We were staying in Admiral Road while our house was being renovated and Gretta almost had a heart attack when she saw me. I remember it perfectly it was a Thursday afternoon, and my dad was at the 4 miler down at the Bluff Athletic Club and came home late that night after a few beers, I sat in the kitchen waiting for him to come home as he was the only one who could take me to the hospital. By the time he finally got home a few hours had passed and the bleeding had eventually stopped. He took one look at the cut, shaved a big bald patch on the top of my head, kind of like a monk, pushed the cut closed and stuck it together with a few plasters. First aid 101, if you can fix it yourself, why bother with a doctor. So when I put my fin into my throat a few weeks later, we just kept surfing.
We literally lived at the beach, we surfed before school which meant waking up at 4am, going past Leroys house, climbing up the gutter pipes onto the ledge that went around the house on the first floor, edging along it past his sisters bedroom to his bedroom and then waking him up. We had this thing that we had to be in the water before the first rays of the sun rose above the horizon, if the sun touched us before we were in the ocean we would turn into stone, so we would sprint down to Garvies, surf then be back home before 6,30am and then go to school. Of course if the surf had been absolutely pumping. Like the one stunningly perfect morning I can remember when there was a slight oily shine in the water, on those days I would get Wade and walk straight out the back gate and back down to the beach.
On weekends we would sleep on the beach, no sleeping bags, just on the sand with a blanket around the fire, not a care in the world.
Those days were fast coming to an end.