Wednesday, 8 May 2013

Morphine Memories Two (7)


I was about 12 when I first saw one. It`s not something you will ever forget, a real live one, that was the only way then really. No such thing as TV and definitely no porn magazines, that was illegal and carried jail time, so as a young kid the only way you saw one is if by way of chance a real live one just happened to be right in front of you.

It was early days for me then at the Bay, I went from the Wedge pretty much straight to the Bay Bowl. Bruce was one of the men and they all used to hang out at Dantes, surf and basically just rule. Real men back then, they were all like gods to me as a grom, long hair, open shirts, tight jeans and oozing attitude. Wowie, the Twins, Ginz, Robbie, Bruce, Pat, Tickbird they all held court at Dantes and made the rules.


It was a stunning summers day, hot as hell, a light south west wind blowing small summer waves in the bowl, it was crowded, it always was , the level of surfing was off the Richter, Burn, Pottz, Tucker, Rustin, Hooded, Gordon, RR, like a hall of fame list going crazy in the small left bowl.


Robbie was one cool cat and always had the hottest chicks, I remember being in awe of the women that used to hang out at the Bay, they were stunning, even as a 12 year old they were like a dream come true. Robbie´s girl crossed the road the same time as I did with his board, she had a crochet green string bikini on and it was a skimpy thing, believe me I remember.

I had my Lightning Bolt pink and green chequered twin fin and was going to go for a surf to see if I could get any scraps in the lineup. She had no idea how to surf but it was a scorcher of a day and was messing around in the shore break on the edge of the rip near the rocks. I caught a few little waves and was kind of lurking around her, as she was pretty hot, when all of a sudden she jumped over a small wave and lay down on her board and started paddling out in the rip. HOLY SHIT I almost died, she was less than a metre in front of me and her skimpy string bikini had pulled over to one side and there it was in all its glory right there, I could have reached over and touched it, it was so close.

When she tried to duck dive in front of me, that was it, I had just died and gone to heaven. 

15 years later MM and a handfull of iceblocks made me feel the same way, I had just died and gone to heaven.

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