Thursday, 24 October 2013

The Change (9)

I really wish I could say, that was that. I had a new found focus, surfing was my mission and it was all fine, I recovered went on to fame and glory travelled the world for the next 30 years, met my dream women, had the most amazing children and we lived happily ever after.

Well actually that kind of did happen. No actually that did happen, except for fame, glory and the happily ever after bit.

However it came at a price. Yes I did have an almost fanatical focus to surf and succeed, but it had its drawbacks as all obsessive behaviour surely does. Not only was surfing my mission, I most certainly was going to have a bloody good time as well. The end always justified the means and believe me for the next few years everything went, there were no moral dilemmas ever.

I still had a year of my Military service to complete and then I had no idea of what was next, one thing just flowed into the next.

The next 10 years were glory years, surf, sex, violence and rock and roll.

The price was high, I went too hard for too long and eventually had to choose. I turned my back and walked away from from the woman and country that I loved.


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