Thursday, 27 February 2014

The Bluff revisited.

I know this is going off track again but, I been pondering wether to actually continue with the next episode of Dee, Scarface and the crazy scene that was about to unfold in J Bay.

I am also moving house so just havent been bothered to write anything.

Anyway, just got a call from Will who has had this published in Surfers Journal.

“They were town clowns, and you just did not want to be associated with them in any way,” recalls Clyde Martin, who grew up surfing the Bluff’s most notorious peak, Garvies, during the early 1980s.
Although Cave Rock has always taken centre stage, the Bluff is home to a series of formidable waves that sit shoulder-to-shoulder, much like the North Shore. The most well known of these is Cave Rock and then Garvies, with Ansteys – or ‘Corner’ – wedged in the middle.
 “The first locals at Garvies were a pretty core bunch of guys. And then there were the guys at Corner, we used to call them the ‘Corner Skates’,” says Martin. “They used to hang out on the grass by the toilets and smoke joints and pop Mandrax (Quaaludes) tablets. They were just a mean fucking bunch of guys that used to hang out there. They wouldn’t feel anything to get into a fight. At Garvies it was the same and that’s just what we learnt from day one. There was a rivalry between Ansteys and Garvies as well, a huge rivalry, although if there was any ever problem from the outside, we’d all stick together.”
Martin is blunt when asked where the fierce territorialism came from. “I’ve got no idea. It’s just something we grew up with,” he replies. “But I do know for a fact that my group of locals, we took the localism thing to another level completely. We pushed it way out of control.”
He recalls a few facebrick duplexes that still line the dunes at Garvies, the last one standing next to the carpark. “Originally there were going to be 21 of those houses going right down the beach towards Cave  Rock,” he says. “Things started to get really gnarly when they started to build those houses. I was still in high school and we decided that we just couldn’t have this at our beach and we literally stopped them building those houses. We burnt the houses down. Every single night we’d go in and rip all the stuff out. We’d saw out the rafters and make bonfires with the wood. They’d get security guards and we’d beat the security guards up and when they got to the last house, the one in the carpark, the guy behind the development decided he just couldn’t do it anymore.”



Thursday, 20 February 2014

JBAY Tales (11)

Birdman was on fire that day, just peak form. His one liners were all time, how do I remember, because we taped the whole thing.

D was keen she made it painfully obvious, it was the first time I realized that there is some kind of attraction coming from Durban and being a surfer, especially to the Afrikaans girls in the smaller cities and towns. It was my first experience with girls in JBay, it opened my eyes to a whole new world of possibilities.

While we contemplated making that cup of tea and debated what kind of chit chat we were going to have with these two ladies who just a few minutes earlier were walking past our rondavel. Birdman immediately gave the bushy friend the name Scarface as she had a small birthmark on her cheek, as she lit up a smoke, he set the tone for what was about to go down with this beauty and I quote.

“Scarface, I do not fuck ashtrays, so if you want to watch you can go outside and watch through the window”

It just went downhill from there.


Wednesday, 19 February 2014

JBAY Tales (10)

We met them opposite the funky church with the red candle that was always burning on the road going up towards the bungalow from the main street.

D was hot but Scarface was a bit of a bushy, we just walked past them on the road and asked them if they wanted to come back to our place, they smiled and said they would like that. We smiled and said we would love that.

It was the middle of the day and we had way too much time on our hands. Two teenage girls and three hormone strung out guys with an overdose of energy with alchohol, drugs and without any kind of supervision.

 It can go either way really, a nice cup of tea and friendly chit chat, or an all out no holds barred sexual frenzy.

I´ll give you one guess as to how this one turned out.


Thursday, 13 February 2014

JBAY Tales (9)

I guess what I am trying to say is, if you really want something you got to go and get it, just sitting there thinking about it is not going to do the job, you got to take the risk and make it happen.

Of course you get rejected, of course you fail, but if you don’t even try,  those things are guaranteed.

We were at that stage in life where the limits were always going to be pushed, what was acceptable and what was not we had to work out for ourselves. It’s a fine line sometimes.

The surf was the same, the bungalow was the same, the food was the same, the beers, vodka, cough mixture all were the same. That year we brought an 8mm movie camera, a cassette tape and girls into the equation and it got messy very fast.

The rest went pretty much to plan, a few more dodgy photos, heaps of perfect waves and miraculously that year we stayed out of jail. It was however always just a question of time before we did eventually find our way there, but we still had a few more years of pushing things to breaking point before it did eventually end up in a huge big bloody mess.


Tuesday, 11 February 2014

JBAY Tales (8)

I loved school, I could never understand the guys who hated it. I saw it clear as day, they were going to be the best years of our lives. Well at least at the time I thought that. Now I know the best years of my life have pretty much been every single one in one way or another, anyway I digress.

School was always easy, I never ever made an effort, the objective was to pass and move on. I just learnt the rules and got on with it, no stress and did what needed to be done.

I worked it out real early in life, you just got to play the cards you get dealt, you either play them smart and win even with a bad hand or be an idiot and lose with 3 Aces. I got dealt an Ace and I have played it all my life, it’s the other cards that keep changing as life moves on, but that Ace I have always had up my sleeve.

I knew I had to get the most out of my school days, after school came the army and a job, how the hell could that be better than school, I understood that clearly, all I wanted to do was surf and hang out with BB, I knew I had to get the teachers on my side.

Mr P well that was under control, a few photos here and there , trips to J Bay and never a bad result in any of my science or biology exams. He however did get very frustrated and loved to have me whipped, the sadistic bugger. He would always know if I was at school or not as he watched my every move and would turn me in and have my arse stripped to the bone.
History was also under control, Du Bois was the teacher in charge of the school surfing team which I was the captain of, he knew if I failed I would be banned from surfing by my dad so no matter how badly my history exams went he always found a way to pass me. He was a legend, blind as a bat and he loved surfing with us, but could never see the sets coming so we would just quietly paddle away from him and watch him get caught inside, fuck it was funny stuff.
I loved English, actually I loved my English teacher way more, she was by far the sexiest woman at school and I loved her to bits. I always liked English, for her I made an effort. One night on one of our many drunken town nights out, Leroy, Jack and myself at my insistence went round to her flat on the beachfront, it was about 1am when I knocked on her door. Unfortunately her husband answered the door and I made an idiot of myself, but the message was loud and clear. It was a message to myself mainly. 

I was still young, only 17 but knew already that if you don’t buy the ticket you will never ever catch the bus. 






Sunday, 9 February 2014

JBay Tales (7)

If nothing else, this tale has made me realize that, I have done and or been involved in some crazy stuff in my lifetime.

Nearly always it has involved women or violence, if we add Leroy into the equation and women, violence and Leroy are involved under normal circumstances the story could and should never be told. However sometimes you just gotta say what the fuck.

It was our next trip to J Bay that we really lit the wick to everything that was going to follow.

We were 17, we had done our first trip and had survived, Mr P was still around he took us back the next year, but no Jack it was Birdman who came along this time. 

Even Leroy is not sure if this tale should be told. There are a lot of things I am not exactly proud of doing and this is one of those times but fuck sakes it certainly was amusing at the time.

It involves an 8mm film a cassette tape, 2 lady friends, Leroy, Birdman and myself and believe me we have done a lot of stuff we should have gone to jail for and this would have made the top 3 for sure.

Of all the naughty shit we have done, this was by far the naughtiest.


Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Hot off the Press.

Ok so slight deviation here, but actually perfect transition into the next JBay tale with a little break between trips.

This is just too good to let slide by. Love a bit of investigative journalism.




Monday, 3 February 2014

JBay Tales (6)

There was never really any doubt, that at 16 we would be ok, honestly I can’t even remember if we had any money, obviously we did, but not a cash card that daddy would have topped up and we could just take what we wanted, no, nothing like that we had a bit of cash and it had to last.

Fuck we had a good time, not even Mr P trying to kiss me using a piece of nougart as bait made Leroy and Jack bash him senseless, we knew he was our pass to more trips and our lift to surf at Seals and much more.

While we were there we saw the start of the 1st Pro event in J Bay the Beach Hotel surf Classic, I just knew right there and then I wanted to surf in that contest, even though Supers on my twinfin was a nightmare, I just could not surf the place properly, I had no drive and the never ending walls were just so different to the drop and barrel of the Bluff, I had a hard time surfing Supertubes for years, but in the end I eventually got its number. I had to surf the left hand point breaks in Spain and Indo before I could come back and surf Supers.

I know now there is no other place on the planet quite like it. “ Speed is everything” A lot later in life while on the world tour, Jack Shipley the founder of the Pipe Masters and Lightning Bolt pulled me aside and said to me, " Son speed is a manouevre in itself" and believe me at Supertubes you can go faster than anywhere else on earth.



(Ps by the way today is exactly 5 years to the day I bashed my brains out on the rocks at Tubes and started this whole little adventure.)