Thursday, 29 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (9)

Three years later, this time alone, driving south down to Portugal. I felt the same, fucked, proper fucked.

The reality of the whole situation hit home, the party was over. It stopped with the goddess. Sometimes things just have to come to an end.

I had four more contests to go, then I would go home and get married a no brainer really, life was good, better than it had ever been. Better than I could ever  have imagined.

Fail to plan, plan to fail was what those tapes my dad had given me had driven into my brain, I just never expected it to be so much fun.

Thursday, 22 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (8)

I am not sure what is worse, knowing you are going to get punished and just sitting it out waiting to take your beating, like when we were at school, you would get told you had been busted first thing in the morning but would only get called to get whipped 5 minutes before you went home, so you had to just sit and suffer all day, waiting to feel that biting pain.

The other is of course thinking you had got away with your crime and with no warning whatsoever just when you are breathing freely, punishment is dealt out with swift brutality giving no time to prepare.

Suddenly bearing down on us at full speed coming directly towards us was George, Katsy and the Green Mamba.

Katsy had a suspiciously large object in his hand as he stood tall in the turret speeding towards us. It was kind of like a joust with the two knights charging towards each other except we had no lance, we were defenseless.  George put his foot flat and accelerated to maximum speed  at the precise moment the bomb flew straight and true.

The explosion as it hit the windscreen was astounding, shit, flour, milk, piss, everything was in that packet as it exploded not on the windscreen but blew the windscreen into a million shards of broken flying bits of safety glass. It then exploded inside the van, a precursor to a bunker buster.

How we survived I do not know, but we were fucked, proper fucked.

Wednesday, 21 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (7)

If history has taught us one thing. It is the surprise attack, the Blitzkrieg is effective. The first blow is always the most important but if you are going to throw it. If you attack, make damn sure you make it a telling blow, take your adversary down in those first moments of combat.

Bullo had made the perfect first strike. The egg splattered all over the green mamba and the looks of terror and surprise were worth their weight in gold.

We won that first round and the next few after that, Bullo went on a mission. However we soon ran out of food to throw, it became serious when Bullo, decided it was time to roll the dice and had a shit in a plastic bag and lobbed that all over the side of Georgies green mamba.

We were just cracking up, this was the funniest journey we had done in a while, we had the Guns and Roses absolutely blaring full blast and the miles were just flying by, this was going to be a trip to remember.

However, history also should have taught us if your enemy has superior weapons and you do not take him down and leave him to regroup, its just a question of time before he comes and gets revenge. Invariably it is swift and devastating.

The Green Mamba, was vastly superior to our slow older version of the Kombi and as we saw them speed off into the distance soiled and damaged, we remembered that they had a turret and Katsy was standing tall and defiant waving his dick at us while he stared us down as they accelerated away bent on revenge.

Sunday, 18 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (6)

It all started about 100km outside of Burgos on those long straight roads heading west into the sun.

We had stopped for supplies in Burgos, the first and last time I had ever been there, that was the glory of travelling in the van, it had everything a stove, fridge, table. While one of you was driving the other guy could make coffee, lunch, whatever you did not have to stop.

It was in a small butchers shop in Burgos that I saw the single most beautiful women I had ever seen. We had gone in to get some cold meats and some chicken and there she stood behind the counter in her blood stained white butchers overcoat and bloody white gloves. Jet black long hair tied up in a bun with her snowy white neck showing. That was all I needed to see actually just a glimpse of neck and I knew  hands down she was the women of my dreams.

Neither Bullo or I spoke a single word of Spanish, we pointed out and mumbled in English what we wanted, she laughed and giggled at us making fools of ourselves, we paid and left. We still had a long drive ahead of us.

It all started to go horribly wrong when Bullo threw the first raw egg out of the window on that long straight road heading west into the sun.

Wednesday, 14 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (5)

The first time I ever drove down to Portugal it was with Bullo. Its over a 1000 km from Hossegor down to Ericiera and we had no clue where we were going, we were in convoy with the other South Africans. Herbie was in the Big Blue and Georgie and Katzy were in the Green Mamba.

I was starting to get the feel of this whole new European thing, the sense of freedom. I had survived Newquay just. France, well obviously not France it was always just a question of time before I lost my way in France, but we will get to that a bit later. We had made a few forays into Spain, surfed in San Sebastian, done the Mundaka run, had surfed it flawless with no one out.  It was summer in Europe 1990 and life pretty much could not have been any better.

Its funny how you imagine places before you actually ever get to see them, sometimes they are way better than you think, sometimes its just a huge disappointment. France was way better than even my vivid imagination could picture, the UK and Newquay was kind of OK, but fuck me sideways there were a lot of crazy ladies around and that kind of made it interesting for a while, but again thats another chapter which we will get to a bit later.

Spain just left me breathless, we had done the Pamplona trip for San Fermin as well as the coast. Its pretty obvious by now I got this thing for brunettes and in Spain my god there were a lot of them.

Anway I was excited to be going to Portugal, Herbie had written to me from Supertubes I wanted to go there, I just knew I would love that place. Driving anywhere with Bullo riding shotgun was always fun.

Monday, 12 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (4)

It should have been easy really, just get in the car and drive off into the sunset. I mean its not as if I had´nt done this before.

If you really liked her you got her number and promised to call her next year. This time there would be no next year, it was over for good. The best four years of my life.

In two months time I would be home, the tour would be over, a top 5 finish on the rankings and walking down the aisle. It was all planned and plotted out perfectly. I had lived out my dream it had been better than I could ever have expected, real life awaited me. The life everyone expected of me, the life you have to have.

So that’s exactly what I did, got her number, said I would see her next year and drove off into the sunset. Its not like she could call me, there were no cell phones. I would have her home land line number and that was it. No stalking on Facebook, no Whatsapp messages, once you were out of sight you were gone.

Portugal was next. The long drive down to Portugal and the next event, I was having a good year I needed to focus on the job at hand but the moment I drove up the hill out of Pantin and thought of Portugal I smiled, fuck how much fun did we have in Portugal.

Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (3)

Moments, big ones and small ones, important ones and insignificant ones, they all add up and make it interesting.

LIFE that is.

 Life, just a combination of moments and they actually are all of equal importance, they make us what we are. They either prepare us for the tough times or they do not, and you never know when those moments are about to happen.

The moment I slid open the Kombi door that hot summers day, and saw her standing there, a goddess with a nervous smile. Deep down in my stomach I just knew, I just knew this was an important moment.

I wasn’t expecting it and I most certainly was not ready to deal with it.

Sunday, 4 May 2014

Morphine Memories One part II (2)

It stopped in that exact instant, the playboy messing around it all came to an immediate end but at the same time the next few months became a moral hell of doubt and uncertainty.

My surfing career was over, it should never have even happened really, it was time to move on. Time to get back to a normal real life. I was at the top of my game as good as I would ever get as a surfer, I was ready to walk away from it all. My life was all set up for me back in Durban, my bachelor party had literally lasted for three full years.

In just two months time I was getting married to the most amazing, beautiful woman you could ever imagine.

(With David and Grishka, photo Fernando Munoz taken that actual day)

Thursday, 1 May 2014

Morphine Memories One - part II (1)

Continued from Morphine Memories 1.
Spain Aug 1993.

 She came back the next day.

I was feeling terrible the Spanish summer sun baking down on me in the back of the Kombi, the smell of urine from the girl locked in the whole night was horrible, there were thousands of people all around the kombi parked at the contest, it was finals day and the beach was packed.

I heard the knock on the kombi door, they were almost getting irritating, the amount of girls always asking to come into the van, almost.

I slowly got up, it was mid-afternoon already and when I slid the door open there she was. As stunning as the night before, jet black hair, tight jeans and a t shirt, if possible even more beautiful than I remembered with that Gaultier leather jacket. It`s always a worry the next morning seeing a girl again, alcohol has a horrible way of distorting your perception.
Not this time, my heart almost stopped seeing her standing there, she said she would come but I only half believed it, but there she was.

I was in a state, the kombi stank of wet wetsuits piss and alcohol, I had to get her away from there. It was the finals day so we went and watched a few heats and talked, it was my lucky day she spoke pretty good English so we managed just fine.